This has been bugging me for a while, as I look into higher end denim. It seems that for these brands, relatively large inseams are the norm: I've seen nothing shorter than 34", for instance. Now, I know not everyone is able to wear inseams that large, and I would guess that denim with these inseams are such that they are supposed to be tailored to match the individual's preference.
But is this accurate? I have a pair of Uniqlo MiJ tapered jeans that were far too long on arrival, and had them altered a few inches before the initial soak. But it could just be me but the altered leg opening just looks weird--a bit too wide, but probably unnoticeable to most people.
So what is the protocol here? I am supposed to alter these jeans, right? Or am I forever doomed to a pair of Levi's with my 30" inseam? I'm troubled by this because as I prepare to pull the trigger on APC or Acne, I want to make sure that this better denim does not have the same weird opening as my 'qlo. But I could be overthinking it: after all, a slim straight fit would probably not suffer this, but because of my biker thighs this isn't really an option for me.
Perhaps my method is wrong? Maybe I should soak and then alter? I'd like some thoughts on this matter, and apologies if I've rambled.
tl;dr: most jeans made with large inseams. I need them smaller (30" = no break but I could probably stack up to 32"). what do?
that first soak or shrink as i call it. should be done first , and the alteration done afterwards.
even the alteration should leave an inch or two for further shrinkage.
shrinkage around the waist and the seat stretches back out when you wear it.
but the inseam does "NOT" stretch back again.
^^^agree w/ A TAILOR. Beyond this point, first thing is to figure out exactly the cut you're looking to end up with (best if you have an existing pair you like which you can measure). Armed with this knowledge, have a look at the various models put out by a bunch of brands (why limit yourself to APC or Acne?) - most of them chart the critical dimensions of their cuts on their websites along with info about what kind of shrinkage to expect. Using this, you can usually get pretty damn close to fit you want. And even if the leg opening isn't small enough after shinking/hemming, you can always have the leg tapered to your specs by a specialized jean tailor (like the folks at Denim Therapy). Sounds involved, but I'm guessing if you're already reading this, you're obsessed enough to go the distance to obtain perfection!
Hey, I also had an issue with this for a while. I'm wearing the N&F skinny guy jeans, and after getting them hemmed I felt like the opening at the bottom looked too big. I messaged them and asked what I should taper the opening to, but then they told me that originally it's a straight leg at that point, unless I cut off like 10 inches. SO, i tried on another pair of skinny guys at a store, and realized that with the insane amount of stacking, it just looks tighter at the bottom, but it isn't actually. So I was freaking out about nothing, and if I want that look I can just hem them to have a bit more stacking. I'd guess that this is the case with any of the jeans you're going to wear as well.