3sixteenkuroki_feat

3sixteen’s Tour of Kuroki Mills: Denim From Start to Finish

New York’s 3sixteen has long had the honor of being one of the only small raw denim companies with their own proprietary fabric. They developed their 14.5oz 100x selvedge denim with Japan’s 

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olff lead

Know Your Terminology: Overlock Stitch vs. Flat-Felled Seam

While it’s obvious that stitching is what holds your pair of selvedge jeans together, what’s not so obvious are the differences between all of these stitches. There’s a chain stitch, [...]

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Norman Porter making jeans

Video: Norman Porter Makes a Jean

Norman Porter Co. has been making jeans one pair at a time for over three years now. Dave Stampler runs the business end of the company while his brother Mike designs and crafts every single pair of jeans with his own hands. Mike’s salvaged [...]

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Bar tack close up detail

Breaking Down Bar Tacks

It’s interesting to think about how something so simple as a bar tack is so crucial. In the same way that denim itself can be so simple, yet so crucial as a standard in a person’s wardrobe, bar tacks represent [...]

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levi's cinch

History of the Cinch: Holding Up Your Pants Since 1872

Frequent readers of this site are familiar with the modern incarnation of denim. The standard five-pocket jean, while pretty detailed, is missing a whole slew of design features that were ubiquitous in the early 20th century. One fairly familiar detail that [...]

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Understanding Twills: Left Hand Twill, Right Hand Twill, Broken Twill

Understanding Twills: Left Hand Twill, Right Hand Twill, Broken Twill

When you weave together cotton warp yarn and white cotton filling yarn you get a 90 degree diagonally interwoven pattern called twill. But that’s not where it ends. Given the intricacies of denim fabric and how it is used [...]

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Knowing Your Raw Denim: Slub and Nep

Knowing Your Raw Denim: Slub and Nep

When it comes to the realm of raw denim, two of the most pertinent, yet often misunderstood, characteristics are nep and slub. Though these terms may seem like silly, redundant jargon, we can’t stress enough the importance of these denim traits. Not [...]

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A Tour of Kojima, Okayama's Projectile Looms And Vintage Shuttle Looms

A Tour of Kojima, Okayama’s Projectile Looms And Vintage Shuttle Looms

Only slightly more than two months after my first visit to Kojima, Okayama, I had the opportunity to return to the heart of Japanese denim production. This time around, I got to see firsthand how denim is woven, getting a [...]

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Feature

Understanding The Difference Between Japanese and American Denim

Japan and the United States have worked long and hard to establish themselves as the two premiere manufacturers of raw selvedge denim in the world. A slightly antiquated process, the milling and production of raw selvedge jeans has all but [...]

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The Flat Head

How It’s Made – Behind The Scenes At The Flat Head’s Denim Factories

Recently, I had the privilege of visiting Kojima in the Okayama prefecture, where I saw first hand how The Flat Head creates their jeans. This is an exclusive look at the manufacturing processes of their jeans. Their unique, decentralized method [...]

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Japan Feature

Meet Your Maker – Japanese Denim Mills

Meet Your Maker: Japanese Denim Mills Unlike the United States, which has only one remaining manufacturer of raw denim, Cone Mills, Japan is home to many active denim mills that churn out the cream of the world’s premium denim around the [...]

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Selvedge Denim - An In-Depth Look

Diving Into Selvedge Denim – An In-Depth Look

Original Red-Line Selvedge Denim Though we’ve previously covered selvedge denim, there is so much disparity between different types, colours, etc. that’s it worth exploring in much more granular detail. The History However, before we embark onto some of the specifics of selvedge [...]

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