Pure Blue Japan XX-020 – Just Released

The indigofera plant, a component of traditional style indigo dyes, is now well-recognized in the denim world as the symbol for Pure Blue Japan. PBJ and its infamous low-tension looms have created pair after pair of wonderfully slubby and textured jeans, but the company has not rested on its laurels – the latest release from PBJ, the XX-020 “Pop-up Jeans”, solidifies their place in irregular denim dominance.

While most raws fade to white, the Pop-ups have deep-dyed yarns which fade to a lighter blue instead, and the resulting evos are remarkable. When jeans fade, what physically occurs is the chemical-mechanical breakdown of the dye via sweat and friction. Jeans usually fade to white as most denim yarns are only partially dyed, but PBJ specifically deep-dyes theirs using an additional rope-dyeing step.

This concept is not necessarily new, companies such as Naked & Famous have used similar concepts, however what makes this specific pair of jeans interesting is the combination of the deep-dying technique combined with PBJ’s infamous denim.


    • Name: Pure Blue Japan XX-020
    • Weight: 14 Oz.
    • Fit: Tapered Slim
    • Fabric: 100% cotton deep-dyed indigo selvedge denim
    • Other Details:
      • Deep dyed blue core
      • Tonal navy stitching
    • Available at Rivet and Hide for £245





Last image

Images courtesy of Pure Blue Japan and Denimio.

Albert Lee

Settled in the busy city of Boston, Massachusetts, Albert has a strong interest in material sciences. Whether he's experimenting with nano-particles or raw denim, he loves to share his wacky ideas with others.

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  • David B.

    Love these. Really torn between these and the BOM008s. Decisions, decisions!

    • bazhvn

      well the prices made it easy to me

      • David B.

        What’s the price on the BOM008’s? I haven’t seen it listed anywhere yet.

        • bazhvn

          somewhere between $295-325 I guess

  • Mike

    Taste is such a good thing, David! Because I would say: Kill it with fire! 😉

  • Altoclefchris

    I think PBJ makes the fabric that everyone aspires to own at least once. This stuff is legendary.

  • Indigofan

    I thought that Naked & Famous are using the PJB denim.

  • http://mediasyrup.com/ Mister56

    Would this be considered a type of Hank Dyeing? It goes to the core of the yarn.

  • http://mediasyrup.com/ Mister56

    This what was written on Denim Scout. Could have been included in this article. This is important info. It really is the core differentiation of this denim.

    “Unlike other denim with an inidigo-dyed warp yarn and undyed weft yarn, the XX-020 is created with weft yarns that are initially dyed in Cobalt blue then rope dyed in indigo. As a result, the denim starts with a deep, dark indigo shade and fades to an electric light blue”.

  • Simon Ross

    to dye for !

  • Aday

    Just bought one sz 31. Oh yeah they come in 2 version, washed and unwashed. I bought directly from PBJ and it is the washed version. Other retailer such as denimio, rivet and hide are offering the unwashed version