Fade Friday – Steel Feather SF0121 (16 Months, 2 Washes)

This week’s Fade Friday comes to usfrom the founder and owner of Britain’s Rivet and Hide, Danny Hodgson. This pair of Steel Feather SF0121 have been beautifully broken in over the course of 16 months and 2 washes.

Steel Feather is a brand owned by Anders Helseth and is exclusively available to Rivet & Hide. Helseth is not only an immense denim enthusiast, but also played an active role in the Warp & Weft Documentary as Executive Producer.

The fades for this particular pair of jeans are especially highlighted in the backside and knees. Great contrast developed due to both the nature of the denim, as well as the day-to-day activities of the wearer. The most fading can be seen in the honeycombs, back pockets, and knee region.

We’d be remiss as well to not give due credit to the wearer and photographer of these SF0121, Jean-Luc Brouard. Based in London and Brighton, Brouard is involved in fashion photography but most passionate about shooting trees in moonlight.

While initially shooting the SF0121 for R&H‘s launch in 2012, the weather conditions were so stormy that all of the other denim kept moving and shifting in the wind. However, this pair stood strong against the elements, rendering Brouard so impressed that he couldn’t help but purchase them and become R&H‘s first customer.


  • Name: Steel Feather 21 Oz. SF0121
  • Weight: 21 Oz.
  • Fit: Mid-rise, slim fit with slight taper
  • Denim: Japanese Selvedge denim
  • Length of wear: 16 months
  • Number of washes: 2
  • Number of soaks: 0
  • Available at: Rivet & Hide for £265.00

Photos – Before

Steel Feather SF0121

Photos – After

Fade Friday Steel Feather SF0121 - Front BackFront Back Closeup - Steel Feather SF0121Honey Combs - Steel Feather SF0121Knee - Steel Feather SF0121

Benjamin Simons

Outside of contributing to RawrDenim.com, Benjamin keeps busy with his collegiate volleyball team, learning Hebrew, riding his fixie bike, and being in the ocean as much as possible.

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  • DDavil

    Epic pair of jeans right there.

  • monster mash

    those combs were trying to climb up into his butt.

  • Devan Prithipaul

    This is amazing. A great example of how Japanese denim fades. I kind of wonder if these were edited in any way, but regardless they look fantastic.

    • Danny Hodgson

      They will soon be exhibited in the store so people can judge for themselves. I think they are more impressive in person.

    • Grandier

      yeah, now i wanna get meself a heavyweight denim and get this kind of contrast :( pretty sure it’ll be hell on the first few weeks/2 month, but it should soften up as it goes….right…?

      • Richalicious

        Yeah mate it’s like wearing carpet on your legs for a few weeks but they do soften up. You should check out Wear Gustin as sometimes they release a heavyweight denim…… maybe not 21oz but heavier than standard 14.5oz selvedge. Rue & State used to do the Unbranded 21Oz which i have and they’re a great jean. Click the link at the side of this page right hand side. “The Unbranded Brand”

      • BelliCapelli

        FYI: Iron Heart 21oz is soft as butter. It takes very little time to become extremely comfortable (assuming it’s the indigo variety and not the super black fade to grey).

  • Richalicious

    those look great !!!! if my Unbranded 21oz look half as good as these i’d be more than happy. Keep us posted on further fades :)

  • Altoclefchris

    I like almost all of Steel Feather’s details, but the selvage back pockets are kind of a deal-breaker to me. I think it’s kind of a silly detail.

    • BelliCapelli

      So that’s what the nonsensical split up the middle of the back pocket is? Yeah, it looks pretty bad (but not as bad as the “F” embroidery on Flat Head jeans…)

    • Denimdude

      If you think about it, aren’t many of the details you see on back pockets kind of “silly”? I mean, construction wise it might be nonessential, but it can help separate one brand from another. I find it kind of cool how it starts out all subtle, and over time a kind of traintrack atari (fade) appears to give some distinction to the jeans.

      • Altoclefchris

        I suppose in a way… I personally don’t like the train tracks on the back pockets. That’s not to say I haven’t seen some really ugly arcs, though.

    • Guribot

      I think it’s much cooler than most back pocket embroideries – it’s subtle and sleek and it only ages as much as the jeans (same reason I love the indigo embroideries on Nudie jeans)

  • Chris

    Great pair of jeans.

  • Chris Tavalare


  • Eric Munson

    I’m impressed by how much the back pocket didn’t fade, especially if it held a decent sized wallet.

    • Denimdude

      Probably because he was sagging a lot, and the back pocket wasn’t being sat on much. That’s my best guess.

  • TomHimself

    why do people cuff like 3 inches? think it looks terrible. other than that nice jeans

    • Altoclefchris

      Some people like a nice beefy cuff

  • swissjeansfreak

    Such a beautiful denim evo on them. Perfectly broken in heavy weight denim. I love those big honey combs!! Keep go rock them hard and keep us updated!!!

  • goldushapple

    It’s so bEAUtiful … so … beauti f u l

  • DevanPrissypants

    Fades are great, but the fit and cuffs are garbage. Next-

    • Denimdude

      Fit is very individual. It depends on your own build, legs, etc. I’ve seen this brand on several different builds (even on a woman), and it seems like the fit has a lot of potential. Cuffs are a matter of taste; I personally prefer a smaller cuff or hemmed to the right length.

      • Denimdude

        it’s very hard to tell how a pair will fit until they’ve been washed and worn. Takes time to settle. A pair of unsanforized jeans when worn won’t give much indication to how they will fit or look with time..

  • jean-luc brouard

    I wasn’t going to post on here but thought i should as i don’t want my haphazard style of denim wear to sway anyone away from these jeans. Nice to see that the photos of this pair have triggered some healthy debate regards to fit, cuffs & detail. I should mention that i do wear my denim loose (i’m a skinny guy, do/did a lot of skating over the years & have a fairly active physical existence). i’m the first to admit that yes, i like big cuffs (blame it on a fear of hemming & yearning to inflict wear on the whole of the garment) & while the fit is loose I am tightening up. I have a new pair of SF & they are a lot more fitted, keep your eyes peeled.
    Believe it or not when i first got these, personally i was like ‘ooh bit fitted for me’ haha but i grew to truly love them. They got worn every day, snow, mud, concrete, rain, sun & i wasn’t kind to them but they very soon felt so right that other jeans of mine got left unworn.
    I should mention that i’m very biased towards heavy denim, its weight is reassuring & i like the challenge (ok maybe i’m lazy & i like that it holds me up) but ultimately you can wear them very hard. As someone who is mean to their clothing i must say i enjoyed wearing this pair & will enjoy wearing my latest pair equally. Cheers from JL. Have fun, wear them how you want to & enjoy it 😉