Fade Friday – Baldwin Henley Nihon Menpu (8 Months, 2 Washes)

Baldwin Henley Feat

Today’s Fade Friday features a finely aged pair of Baldwin Henley Nihon Menpu. The owner, forum user cincinnatus, carefully documented the progress of these jeans over the course of eight months. Despite being worn only lightly and needing only preemptive crotch and pocket repairs, the denim has faded surprisingly elegantly.

Vibrant electric blues streak against a dark navy background creating stunning effects. Especially notable are the smooth fades of the whiskers. Though these jeans have had a long journey thus far, they still look like they have plenty of life left in them.


  • Name: Baldwin Henley Nihon Menpu
  • Weight: 14 Oz.
  • Fit: Slim Fit
  • Denim: 100% selvedge denim
  • Length of wear: 8 months
  • Number of washes: 2
  • Number of soaks: 0
  • Available at: Baldwin for $220.00

Photos – Before

Baldwin Henley Nihon Menpu

Photos – After 1.5 Months

Baldwin Henley Nihon Menpu After 1.5 Months

Photos – After 5 Months and 1 Wash

Baldwin Henley Nihon Menpu Cuff

Baldwin Henley Nihon Menpu Honeycombs

Baldwin Henley Nihon Menpu Pockets

Baldwin Henley Nihon Menpu Top Block

Baldwin Henley Nihon Menpu Front and Back

Photos – 8 Months (After 2 Washes and Repairs)

Baldwin Henley Nihon Menpu Top Block After 8 Months

Baldwin Henley Nihon Menpu Top Block After 8 Months

Front Pocket - Baldwin Henley Nihon Menpu Top Block After 8 Months

Baldwin Henley Nihon Menpu Cuff After 8 Months

Darning Work on Baldwin Henley Nihon Menpu After 8 Months

Baldwin Henley Nihon Menpu Loops After 8 Months

Baldwin Henley Nihon Menpu Crotch Repairs After 8 Months

Baldwin Henley Nihon Menpu Whiskers

Albert Lee

Settled in the busy city of Boston, Massachusetts, Albert has a strong interest in material sciences. Whether he's experimenting with nano-particles or raw denim, he loves to share his wacky ideas with others.

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  • ingeniousinput

    Fit looks great, just they dont really seem to stand out at all. I know these are kinda after the understaded look but really seem to underwhelm

  • DDavil

    The subtle fades don’t bother me so much. The fact that they had so many repairs in just 8 months does however make me wonder just what this guy was doing? I wish we had more info on the wearers lifestyle? Looks like a lot of bike riding? When I see damage like that outside my pockets, it usually means a hole in my pocket bags too. Either way Im not really impressed with the fade, or the structural integrity of these jeans.

  • Geoff Dick

    I agree with DDavil. But i’ve worn jeans for 8months+ and only 1 wash, and I bike almost 30km a day commuting to and from work in my jeans and they are in much better shape. Repairs have been done well but seem out of place based on the amount of fading. Nice roping and wallet but whiskers and combs aren’t as strong as other parts of the jean. I usually don’t mind subtle fades like this but this is oddly inconsistent. Fit is amazing with the low top cruisers in the Before pics, but too tight for the crepe soled boots. Overall, better than a lot of the FFs but not my fav. I want to blame the fit but it might also be the fabric. I’ve never seen any Kurabo denim in person so I can’t say. PS: Love the belt

  • Alex Steinker

    These are my jeans. I hadn’t really had a fade friday goal in mind, I was just posting my progress. I’m a studio photographer. I spend 4-6 hours every day on the floor. Usually on my backside. Hard wood floors and concrete. Not easy on the jeans. I’m not sure about “so many repairs.” It was just a crotch blowout and a pocket reinforcement. Pretty standard. Took about a week and was very satisfied with the repair. Love this pair dearly. I am a cyclist but I never commute in these jeans. Have an athletic build from cycling. Currently searching for a straighter cut for my next pair. I will admit these were washed to early in order to be sent out for the repair. Thanks for the comments!

    • chunk_head

      makes sense now, my TFH 3009 are a similar age with no repairs, they are the same weight so i was kinda wondering. however, if you are working in them, the reapirs make a little mroe sense

    • Ferdinand

      Straighter cut for quads, good idea. Just bought a pair of n&f slim guys, they’re doing the trick.

    • swissjeansfreak

      Nice denim eve on them
      Still plenty of life left. Keep go rock them hard for another long time
      I myself never ever wash or soak my jeans because I like the original color tone more then the royal blue color tone you get after first washing

    • Jim

      Which CAT are you?

      • Alex Steinker

        I am a Cat 3 cyclocross racer and a Cat 4 road racer. I haven’t raced road in a couple of years though. I also race expert MTB and SS open. Sorry Just saw this!

    • Jon

      This is funny, because I also bought these jeans from milkbar and I reside in Columbus. Kareem is the homie.

      • Alex Steinker

        Yeah Man!

  • Sean

    I have a pair of these. Anyone else who wears these notice they very low rise (not mid rise as advertised) and fits true to size? They don’t open up much with wear. Wish I’d known.

    • Alex Steinker

      Definitely agree on that.

  • Kyle

    I don’t know if people realize this but 90% of denim companies that are us based like rogue territory, Baldwin, essentially are the same jeans. They are made in the same warehouses and they all use the same Japanese and American denim suppliers. I will say my rogues have a couple stitches I think look better and in a few areas I think attention to detail has been better, but even so, all of these jeans are so similar it is hard to say that one is better

    • BillygoatsGruff312

      I went into Independence in Chicago and they carry a number of American labels and I thought the same thing. On the other hand, I went to Mildblend and they had some Railcar’s and I was really impressed. Most American joints use ConeMills. And while that doesn’t make them all the same, it does tend to make them pretty similar.

      Given there’s very little difference in price from buying a pair of quality Japanese, with a number of distiguishing features (texture, arcs, selvage ear) and buying a pair of Americans without said distinctions, I tend to be biased towards the Jap denims.

      • Joe Kerley

        As for distinctions, Baldwin purchases a different fabric for each run based upon what fits their quality standard, making
        each pair you get from them unique to when you bought it. They’ve done
        Cone (which are what I have), Kaihara and Kurabo. Their current run available online is Kurabo black line selvedge, but they possibly have different
        options available in their stores. In store, the guys will get you a
        fabric based upon what you might like. For example, my run of the Cone
        denim once broken in, turned out to be a very soft and comfortable
        fabric that I am completely satisfied with. I also have a pair of
        Henleys in the Duck Canvas. I like the Samuel fit best, but
        they don’t run it very often and I think the only place you can get it
        now is Blue Owl Workshop.

      • Model Citizen

        I spent last week shopping for a new pair of jeans and ended up settling on a pair of Railcar Spikes X009s. Here in the Twin Cities we have a surprisingly strong selection of American brands to choose from, Tellason, Baldwin, Left Field, LVC, Rogue Territory, Raleigh, 3Sixteen, Imogen + Willie, Jean Shop, and Railcar. Of all the brands I looked at, Railcar, Left Field, and Rogue Territory seemed to be the most impressive. The other brands did seem to be kind of interchangable.

        • Devan Prithipaul

          Where did you get your denim there?

          • Model Citizen

            I got mine at a shop called Martin Patrick 3. They carry Railcar, 3Sixteen, Rogue Territory, and some lesser brands like Unbranded, N&F and Rag & Bone. I actually don’t like the store all that much aside from their decent denim selection, but they do carry some nice menswear brands. The other shop in town, BlackBlue, is where I got my pair hemmed. They do chainstitch hemming and aside from their solid denim selection they carry menswear brands like A.PC., Engineered Garments, Norse Projects, Gant Rugger, and some others. That store is really dope.

      • Lucas

        As a supporter of American Made goods, I find that when American companies use Cone Mills, they are being “true” to the whole Made In America lifestyle. Yes, Cone denim’s are all very similar, but when a company is proud of being Made in US, shouldn’t everything they use be made in US? Not just constructed in us?… -Also, I am in NO way knocking Japanese denim, I love the quality that is Japanese denim.


          lucas, I agree. especially when you consider brands such as tellason or Raleigh and how everything on their jean is domestic. a lot of Europeans are heavy into Japanese denim (and yes, it is superior). so i guess youd have to be an American to appreciate such a thing.

    • Lucas

      As fr as I know, Rogue makes their jeans in house. I haven’t heard anything about them using “the” factory. I had a defective inseam on my SK’s and Karl was happy to fix them for me. I feel that the companies who have their jeans made by “the” factory don’t pay that much attention to their denim after it’s sold. But yes, there are MANY companies that get their jeans made by the same factory in San Francisco, for an astonishingly cheap price (especially when seeing the mark up for the jeans).

      • Guest

        Rogue Territory jeans are not made in-house, they’re sewn in a factory in Los Angeles.

  • swissjeansfreak

    Nice denim evo. Still plenty of life left. Would like to see them again in another year

  • kennydoggyu

    I think u washed it a bit too early and the starching was lost and not major crease started to form (judging from the combs). But I’m not really anyone, so yeah…