Fade Friday – 3sixteen SL-100x (14 Months, 4 Washes)

Fade Friday - 3sixteen SL-100x (14 Months, 4 Washes) - RawrDenimNew York City-based 3sixteen is well-known in the raw denim arena for their high-quality selvedge as well as the high-quality fades that come along with denim of such a level.  The brand was most recently featured on Fade Friday for their ST-120x shadow selvedge, part of their reddit World Tour.

This time around it is the brand’s flagship SL-100x jeans featured – their much-celebrated slim-straight fit in a 14.5 oz. selvedge custom woven for the brand by Kuroki Mills in Okayama, Japan. Worn for 14 months with 4 washes, this pair shows some exceptional fades and natural points of wear.

Not many details are provided about this pair, but be sure to check out the great photos below and on 3sixteen‘s website.


  • Name: 3sixteen SL-100x
  • Weight: 14.5 Oz.
  • Fit: Slim straight fit with a slight taper from the knee down
  • Denim: 100% cotton raw indigo selvedge from Kuroki Mills in Okayama, Japan
  • Other details:
    • Custom gunmetal shanks and rivets
    • Selvedge fly and coin pocket detailing
    • Continuous tucked waistband chainstitch
    • Heavyweight leather patch by Tanner Goods
    • Made in the USA
  • Length of wear: 14 months
  • Number of washes: 4
  • Available at: 3sixteen for $240.00

Photos – Before

3sixteen SL-100x

Photos – After

Fit - 3sixteen SL-100x

Fade Friday - 3sixteen SL-100x (14 Months, 4 Washes) - RawrDenim

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Austin Bryant

Austin is a denim enthusiast that hails from Boston, Massachusetts. He works in the fashion industry and has a passion for all things visual. His photo blog is Men of Charisma and his adventures can be seen through his Instagram: @ausbry

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  • whorebucks

    Most impressive.

  • Devan Prithipaul

    Very nice 3-d fades, you can definitely “see” the wearer through his jeans. One or two fewer washes would really make it for me.

  • hirako

    ON ff you say 4 wash, but sometimes you say 3 soak. what is difference between wash and soak? on your how to wash guide it looks like that is soak?! what is difference? is whats on the website wash or soak

    • http://mediasyrup.com/ Mister56

      The key difference is when soap is used.

      • guest

        you can use soap during a soak. i believe the difference between soaks and washes is that in soaks, you don’t agitate your denim through hand washing or spin cycles. (causing more indigo loss)

        • BillygoatsGruff312

          i cannot imagine why someone would use soap on a “soak.” thats like using a shampoo on a “rinse.”

          • guest

            You can or not. It’s up to you. I prefer using detergent and then rinsing the jeans under water afterward. I’m just saying that the actual main difference is use of hand washing/spin cycles.

  • Davil

    Impressive fades, but I think 3sixteen is overpriced. Judging by what I’ve seen, at least the denim fades well.

    • http://www.gilt.com/invite/tman916 Thomas

      Care to elaborate?

      • Davil

        When you read about the details of the denim, they talk about the hidden coin pocket selvedge, and leather patch. These are more or less standard on a lot of denim. Even if there is not a heavy patch, other companies use some type of special material or detail on the patch. When you look at denim in the $100 to $200 range, I think there are a lot of companies that can compete with what 3sixteen produces. Nudie, Pace, Naked and Famous, Rouge Territory, Eat Dust, ect…The market is literally littered with companies with comparable products for less. In the end, I would rather spend $60 more and move up to the ranks for Momotaro, Sugarcane, PBJ, and others in the $300 range. In many cases you get heavy pocket bags that you can actually use, lined rear pockets, and/or all of the cache of of owning a established, quality brand (including the highest quality of japanese denim made). In my opinion, I feel like a lot of American companies have chosen a sweet spot price between the cheap brands (Canadian, American, European) and the more expensive japanese brands and placed their products there without real justification. In the end its up to the purchaser to make the decision. I just know I want the most for my money.

        • you can def see the wearer thr

          ok im not disagreeing but whats the real justification for more expensive Japanese brands to place their products where they are placed?

          • Davil

            Well, I think you have to realize the import costs first off, and then mark-up price by time denim reaches you in the states. Especially if you buy from Selfedge, or blue and green (they are in business to make money). When you are actually in Japan the denim is much cheaper in many cases. But just like when buying a car, you will pay a premium for quality. The quality of the stitching materials and rivets could be the difference between losing a pocket or a button fly. I think the Japanese consumers have established what they are willing to pay, and we follow because this is where the major selvedge producers are. Just my opinion. Im not an industry analyst.

          • MosquitoControl

            I disagree that most of these things matter? I want quality denim with a good cut and good worksmanship. N&F is cheaper, often less than half the price, but the denim isn’t as nice (by and large), nor is the quality.

            Selvage coin pockets or fly matter little to me. I just want a good pair. 3sixteen is much better than nudies.

            That said, the fit on this guy is horrific. How are those thighs so huge?

          • Davil

            I agree that in the end, most of these things don’t necessarily matter…depending on the price. If you pay for unbranded quality, then you should not expect anything else and if you get more, then be happy.

            If you spend $400 for your denim you should not expect stitching to come apart after a month or two or for buttons to be falling off. An educated buyer will always get the most for their money. If the best features are a thick patch, selvedge coin pockets, and japanese denim well…it’s not enough to impress me.

          • Grandier

            about the fit…i never personally tried the jeans, but according to the description, it’s a ” Slim straight fit with a slight taper from the knee down.”

            CMIIW, i’m always under the impression that ‘slim-straight’ jeans from america/canada are always a bit baggy than skinny -> still got a room on your thigh. and it seems that this guy do 3-4 small cuffs as well, so it might accentuate the ‘largeness’ of the thigh area (if you notice, the cuffs are quite high up from the ankle.) either that, or the guy does have gigantic thigh lol.

          • BelliCapelli

            I’m glad you brought up the quality of the button fly; I bought a pair of ST-100x about two years ago and fly buttons popped off twice before I reached 3 or 4 months of actual wear. Although 3sixteen was friendly enough to cover return shipping after sending them to NYC for a repair each time, I had to pay priority mail/insurance twice to get them there. Perhaps they’ve improved things on pairs made more recently, but I wasn’t impressed and certainly won’t be buying anything 3sixteen again. I’ve had much better luck with Japan Blue in the 200ish price range.

        • http://www.gilt.com/invite/tman916 Thomas

          “When you read about the details of the denim, they talk about the hidden coin pocket selvedge, and leather patch. These are more or less standard on a lot of denim.”

          – None of these features are standard on comparably priced denim. I’ve never heard of Pace or Eat Dust but N&F and Nudie do not have custom denim milled specifically for their jeans, coin pocket selvedge, or bridle leather patch. Of the companies you mentioned, only RGT can compete with 3sixteen with their details but even then they make jeans in completely different cuts, weights, and have much different details. The market (North American at least) is not “literally littered with companies with comparable products for less”…

          “In the end, I would rather spend $60 more and move up to the ranks for Momotaro, Sugarcane, PBJ, and others in the $300 range.”

          – Okay good for you but for the most part 3sixteen offers entry level denim priced around $220.00 where Those companies have jeans costing $300+ so you’d be paying $80+, not just a mere $60 more. Also, they offer different cuts with different fabrics… What may work for you may not work for others.

          “I feel like a lot of American companies have chosen a sweet spot price between the cheap brands (Canadian, American, European) and the more expensive japanese brands and placed their products there without real justification.”

          – Personally I feel like 3sixteen offers excellent products, excellent fits, and reasonable prices but it sounds like you have something against American companies (or just 3sixteen)… Do you have anything to back up your reasoning?

          • Davil

            Pace and Eat Dust are both Swedish companies I believe. They are very similar brands and I have seen both up close in local shops. I own a pair of Pace Denim. Pace was highlighted this week on Rawrdenim. I paid around $200 for my pace denim. I think $180 to be exact. They have selvedge coin pockets, selvedge on the button fly, and a deerskin patch. A few other nice details as well…japanese denim standard. NF might not have a thick patch but they do have many custom denims from japan. The fades, and denim definitely can compete with 3sixteen…only they are also priced at a better value. As far as Nudie goes, regardless of a thick leather patch, or custom denim from Okayama, don’t even question the ability of Nudie fades to compare with 3sixteen.

            I’m not going to argue with you. You should do your homework. There are plenty of companies that offer similar products as 3sixteen but at a better value. It might not be the exact same offering, but they are comparable. Don’t be lazy, investigate for yourself. Selvedge coin pockets are standard these days on everything from uniqlo and unbranded to the big boys like iron heart…I own all three jeans with coin pocket and japanese selvedge standard.

            Any company buying denim from Okayama is producing denim that will likely fade nicely if treated correctly. If you are buying from a small mill in Okayama, then its pretty likely you will be selling something unique only to your line. What 3sixteen is doing is a nice way to market, but not as uncommon as you might think.

            Most of the jeans I see on their sight costs 240. Not a huge sum, but like I said, if it were me, I’d just pay $60 more and get a pair of Momo’s, PBJ’s, Sugarcanes, SDA ect. If I was going to spend less I would get a pair Pace, NF, maybe even some APC’s or japan blues. It’s a matter of value for the money when I buy my denim. There are too many options out there not to play the value card.

          • Kevin

            You all arguing over the denim coming from Japan, the patch etc are childish.

            First of all why does a damn patch matter are you that materialist that you need to show off your jeans they would be the same jeans without the patch. The patch has no functional purpose and so do many other things that you mention. Speaking on a patch shows that you don’t care about the fabric, design, or even the people involved in the process of creation.

            The things that matter are the quality of the denim meaning the thickness, and craftsman shift this can happen anywhere not just Japan. In fact if you really cared about the making and craftsmanship of the product, be it jeans, or any other type of pants you would buy something made 100% by hand.

            The fit is irrelevant just because they fit you well does not mean they for the other 7 billion humans. Every human has a different body shape jeans will never fit perfectly unless they are made to your measurements so unless you are telling them to try the pants on your mention of the fit is not important.

            The dye will fade differently depending on the type of actives you do while in them and the atmosphere examples such as Alaska (cold), South Africa (hot), the Sahara (hot dry) or New Guinea (hot extremely humid)

            It does not matter where the hell you buy denim from as long as the people working there know what they are doing everything will come out fine. You could buy something from China, Timbuktu or some other place that could be just is good it all depends on the attention and care the person gives the product from the growing of the cotton, the indigo (if natural), the creation of chemicals (if not natural indigo) and so on. The place of origin does not matter as most of the time it does not matter unless something can only be made there such as with some plant species that can only grow in certain places.

          • Unnmd

            Eat Dust is Belgian….just FYI

          • Benno Cooper

            Yes sir you are right!

          • Guest

            You can pick up some older models of 3sixteen for about $150. They don’t fade as well as Nudies, but they sure don’t rip as easily as N&F or Nudies if you know how to size your pair of denim correctly. Have you ever seen a person try to cram into a pair of raw denim that is way to tight for them in order to develop more defined creases and fades? That’s not how you’re supposed to wear raw denim, in my opinion. Some pairs of Nudies fade faster because they’re 11.5 ounces, compared to 3sixteen 15 oz or 17 oz. Would you say that Nudie is better than a pair of 23 oz Ironheart, which takes a very much longer time to fade?

  • DevanPrissypants

    Fit is garbage.Next…

  • hsc3_90293

    great pants, great fitting (I have a pair) but I don’t like this trend for shallow scoop front pockets. I can barely get half my hand in the front pocket.

  • swissjeansfreak

    Great raw denim evolution including patina on those pants. I love the shiny fadings on them. Congrats to the huge raw denim love put in to this raw denim project.

  • chuckles

    The denim looks great but I was so disappointed to see the fit pic.

  • robert

    why have a purple fade/shadow there?