White Horse Trading Co. Jeans – Artisan And American Ingenuity

White Horse Trading Co. Horse Hair Patch

White Horse Trading Co.

In the world of menswear, particularly denim, we’ve become so accustomed to seeing phrases like “hand-made” or “Made in America“, as well as seeing detailed descriptions of the materials used and process taken. It’s easy to overlook these components and forget what goes on behind the scenes to be able to put those words on a hangtag.

For what it’s worth, I think while it’s never good to take these brands’ hard work for granted; it’s a great indicator that there is a growing focus in the market on creating better made goods. Luckily, there will always be brands like White Horse Trading Co. to remind us of everything that goes into making a high quality pair of jeans.

White Horse Trading Co Details

White Horse Trading Co. hangtag and pocket bags

Consisting of only the owner and founder, Ryan Martin, White Horse Trading Company is a true one-man operation where everything is bench-made in Colorado. This means that the entire process, from cutting the fabric to sewing and finish the product, everything is done by Martin himself. As a sixth generation sewist and pattern maker, he has learned and adopted techniques passed down from generation to generation in his family, and the result of this pedigree is a collection of jeans and jackets that shows his attention to detail in the construction of the jeans as well as the fabrics and hardware used.

White Horse Trading Co. offers two styles of jeans and two jackets all using the same fabric which currently is a 16oz Japanese selvedge denim. The inspiration behind both the jeans and jacket seems to lean more towards vintage western styles with a touch of modern ideas. The jeans sit somewhere in between a slim fit and fuller vintage fit with one model, the R1911, having a slimmer seat and a slight bootcut and the other model, the R1914, having a fuller seat and slight taper at the knee. The jackets are based off of classic western and trucker jackets with modifications such as a rounded club collar.

White Horse Trading Co R1911

White Horse Trading Co. R1911

White Horse Trading Co R1914

White Horse Trading Co. R1914

While it’s not uncommon to to see other jeans and jackets that fit these descriptions of quality materials combined with both vintage and modern fits, where White Horse Trading Co. sets itself apart is in the details. Everything is self enclosed, meaning that there are no exposed raw fabric edges. For the seams, Ryan opts to use riser seams which is a technique that has fallen out of favor as standard machine felled seams became popular in modern clothing. While the technique may seem antiquated, it has been proven to give the construction extra durability.

The leather patch is a branded hair-on-hide patch and all the buttons and rivets are made of pure copper. It’s also worth noting that each jean and jacket is made to order so between when you place an order to when you receive it, there is a bit of a wait time while Ryan makes your order from start to finish.

White Horse Trading Co Engineer Jacket

White Horse Trading Co. The Engineer jacket

Outside of the core offerings, White Horse Trading Co. is no stranger to collaborations (some of you may remember the collaborative trucker jacket he did with Topo Designs that sold out within a couple days) and will be releasing a 15oz Kuroki denim utility pant with Old North, a store in North Carolina, and the Bandit Photographer in the fall. To stay in the loop on collaborations and other news and products from Martin and White Horse Trading Co., visit their website and also follow them on Facebook and Instagram.

Worn Pair of White Horse Trading Co R1914

White Horse Trading Co. R1914 after 3 weeks of wear

Young Lee

Young Lee

Young is a self proclaimed taco and denim enthusiast who plays in the San Francisco bands, The Soonest , and Theres Talk. He regularly posts pictures relating to denim and menswear on Tumblr, Liverpool and Main and Instagram, Young of The Soonest.

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  • Lucas

    Awesome article! Glad to see that my suggestion in a brand actually made it into “Print”. WHTC has some awesome pieces and I’m glad they’re getting more press about it!

  • Kyle

    Looks pretty cool, never heard of this brand before. I like the western vibe, it’s definitely different (and way more appealing to me) than the workwear look that dominates most small raw denim brands. The arcs and detailing look good too.

  • http://Bandanna-almanac.com/ The Bandanna Almanac

    Finally someone with actual skills, passion, and knowledge being featured.

  • Ryan Chinaski

    the 1914s might be the perfect cut. 12+ in thighs with a nice 8 inch leg opening. i think i might be coppin

  • Ryan Chinaski

    i cant stop looking at these photos. so much garbage cookie cutter denim lately. this is fucking inspiring. i want every piece.

    devan, if you rage about the fits, i will lose my shit.

  • Cruel_Angel

    I hate to be harsh, but looks like pretty standard fair. I think the appeal here is the 1 man show doing everything. While I do find this interesting, he then goes to state that his jeans are currently the best ones on the market. Even for the price he couldn’t back that up. Just take a look at Kyle’s article on Flat Head’s production.

    We can even be fair and compare him to another made in USA one man brand. Take a look at ROY. Construction quality, and details are unmatched.

    • Lucas

      So he states that his are the best on the market. If you had your own company, would you not say that your own is the best?
      I’m sorry, but I would never want to buy a product from a company that’s motto is “Ours aren’t as good as (insert brand)”.

    • Kyle

      I wouldn’t say that a one-man brand like White Horse, Roy, or Ande Whall is superior to small production companies like Flat Head, Samurai, Pure Blue Japan, etc. It really depends on what you’re looking for in terms of construction, details, and other features. They’re two different ways of making jeans and I don’t feel that either is really superior to the other, overall. I just like the variety such one-man brands offer to the denim market.

    • Ryan Chinaski

      who is doing a slight boot cut right now? who is using hair on hide patches? who, other than LVC, is regularly doing a back cinch? and a back pocket embellishment that actually works?

      this is the antithesis of standard fare. go take a look at gustin or bravestar if you want to see straight trendster denim startups.

  • Devan Prithipaul

    Fit is fine, a true slim and straight fit don’t worry about it Ryan. But that is the only good thing about this denim. the back pocket stitching is not very nice, and other than the one man brand thing, this is your regular USA made, artisan denim that is unparralleld in craftsmanship and quality but, when you come down to it, is pretty boring.

    • holy sweet devan

      we want an article from you!!!!
      something not boring, something about nice backpocket stitching unparalleled in craftmanship and quality!!!

    • Loki

      How can you say the back pocket stitching is not very nice, or anything else. Better say, “I think … ” Making absolute assumptions disqualifies you from being a nice guy. Let the others have their opinions as well. I can understand why others don’t like the way you comment on articles.

      • Devan Prithipaul

        Dude, its obviously what I think… everything is opinion, do we have to state all time, “in my personal opinion”? isnt it obvious? i let others have their opinions, but look around the comments “damn that jacket is nice, perfect cut, pretty standard fair” i don’t see anyone else saying “I think…”. Just because mine is negative it is worse?

    • Ryan Chinaski

      i usually agree on back pocket embellishments. but this one reminds me of a complex wrangler design. its done with a single needle and seems to have a nice bit of irregularity to it. its not too flashy and for some reason just works. better than that nasty imperial pocket design

      • Devan Prithipaul

        I kind of agree, it somehow doesnt come across as ugly…. it seems a bit more genuine.

  • Harry Ross

    Damn that jacket is nice! Rivaling Rogue Territory’s jackets.