Tender Co. Type 130 “Unborn” Raw Denim Jeans

tender main

Tender Co. is a one-man brand based in England with a focus in antique workwear and machinery from the Great British Steam Age. William Kroll, the man behind the brand, took the name from the truck in a steam train which carried the coal and water to power the locomotive.

Tender produces a wide range of handmade garments, while maintaining the purity of an old fashion atelier. One of their flagship pieces is the “Unborn” Type 130, a pair of jeans with so many features that we did’t know where to start with our review.

The Unborn is made in England, using a 16 Oz. unsanforized japanese selvedge denim made it from unbleached American cotton and dipped 25 times in synthetic indigo. The denim is actually a shrink to fit to 17 Oz., meaning that the initial 16 Oz. ends up weighing 17 Oz. after the initial wash.

Among the numerous features, the Type 130 has a deep “V” yoke that adds room in the seat for an ergonomic fit, as well as triple stitching on seams for longer wear. The reverse top-stitched inseam and double-stitched yoke prevent blowouts in the crotch and seat.

Pockets are angled for an ease of entry and reinforced with hidden selvedge strip for durability; an added bonus to this is that the pocket mouth will soften and curve with use. The jeans also feature a “snob’s thumb” coin pocket with selvedge calico plus 6 lined belt loops.

These are just a few of the many details around this awesome pair of jeans which truly resemble the 50’s british workwear. They might not be everyones cup of tea, but would appeal to all of those “chaps” looking for a pure British vintage look.


  • Name: Tender Co. Type 130 “Unborn”
  • Weight: 16 Oz. (17 Oz. post-wash)
  • Fit: Tapered leg
  • Denim: Unsanforized, Japanese blue-line selvedge denim
  • Price: $365.00
  • Available from: Hickoree’s
  • Other Details:
    • Double folded hems for maximum “rope” fading
    • Kick-pressed “Universal” copper dome rivets
    • Care label attached to yoke at back, remove if desired
    • Self-fabric selvedge denim front pocket bags
    • Solid cast brass removable button 
    • Made in England


Fit - Tender Co. Type 130 "Unborn" Raw Denim Jeans

Fit – Tender Co. Type 130 “Unborn” Raw Denim Jeans

Tender Co. Type 130 "Unborn" Raw Denim Jeans Front and Back - Tender Co. Type 130 "Unborn" Raw Denim Jeans Button and Label - Tender Co. Type 130 "Unborn" Raw Denim Jeans Selvedge Detailing - Tender Co. Type 130 "Unborn" Raw Denim Jeans Special Packaging and Instructions - Tender Co. Type 130 "Unborn" Raw Denim Jeans Pocket Details - Tender Co. Type 130 "Unborn" Raw Denim Jeans

Paul Travi

Paul Travi

Paul's first experience with raw denim was at the age of 10 when his parents purchased him a pair of raw Lee Jeans. After many years, he found the very same pair of jeans in the U.S. and since then his interest in denim became a passion. Now based in Holland, Paul is constantly researching and experimenting with the amazing fabric.

More Posts - Website

  • Fuente87

    Is there a skinny fit coming out?

    • GeapGeap

      Read the title.

      • http://www.gilt.com/invite/tman916 Thomas

        A skinny fit is different from a tapered fit.

    • http://www.facebook.com/jon.woong Jon Woong

      The skinny fit is available at Blue Owl,

  • NOCHnoch

    Where can I get the 121?

  • Grayson14

    Trying to get ahold of Unbranded to figure out how much their jeans stretch and stuff and the “Contact Us” part of their site isn’t accepting emails anymore. Anyone able to help?

    • dood

      .5in to 1in

  • http://www.facebook.com/profile.php?id=1676435131 Carlos Jimenez

    Just ordered some, my body is ready.

  • naruto173

    nice fade! however the crotch looks like rotting lol

  • Nick

    Is this raw? I know most of their stuff is, but it just says selvedge throughout so just trying to be sure.

  • Dj v.

    What if we wanted hem? I heard its tough material to sew through. I’ve just been wondering.

    • Dj v.

      Wanted them hemmed*