Swedish denim label Nudie has come a long ways since their start in the coastal city of Gothenberg in 2001. They’ve grown to nearly a dozen different denim cuts, a full line of unisex denim, and as of Fall/Winter ’12 have made the switch to 100% organic cotton.
Head of North American PR, Ruari Mahon, gave us the chance to preview their upcoming Spring/Summer collection. Whereas Nudie of the past was all about catching your eye – bright orange stitching and loud graphic tees – their new offerings show a much more understated level of marketing and a sense of maturity within the brand.
Clean lines, simple shapes, and iconic silhouettes define Nudie‘s upcoming lineup. The newest cut on offer, Straight Alf, aims for 1950′s heritage wear with a higher rise, roomier top block, heavier “neppy” denim, and as evidenced by the name, a straight leg.
Their raw denim jackets now come in two varieties: the classic Conny with extensive stitching and the back pocket detail across the shoulder yoke, and the Perry, a new jacket with more minimal details.
Other pieces like their redesigned chambray shirts show pared-down details, with a much larger emphasis on fabric and drape. The angular pockets and overlock hem are reminiscent of labels like Engineered Garments.
But that playful spirit hasn’t entirely disappeared. One of the real standouts was a grey lamb suede trucker jacket with a seriously breathtaking grain. This combination of a classic design with a single novel twist in material seems to sum up Nudie’s new vision.
Even with this departure of sorts, Nudie hasn’t strayed too deeply into the realm of heritage wear. It may still be a tad overbranded for our taste, but it is a very big step in a fresh direction. We were impressed with the real effort and care that played into both the materials and design of each individual piece and are very excited to see where they go from here.
Keep an eye out for these pieces, plus many more, to drop in January of the new year.