How To Create Your Own Pair Of Raw Denim – Pt. 1

How To Create Your Own Pair Of Raw Denim - Pt. 1

How To Create Your Own Pair Of Raw Denim - Pt. 1

This is part one in a series of guest posts on how to create a pair of raw jeans. This series is written by Christopher J. Brown, the owner of denim label Brown, Deim. In case you missed it, we featured Brown, Deim in a previous article that also launched our third denim giveaway. Check for part two in the near future.

To produce your own pair of raw denim is a very exciting experience because it stokes creativity on several fronts. Even within the micro-niche world of fine raw denim it’s great fun to see classic ideas experimented with and new styles develop. In doing so, it allows raw denim to move forward with better design.

Your desire to create your own pair of raw jeans originates with creativity. Specifically, the creativity to produce your very own fresh jeans with either a different fit, design, fabrique, or other qualities.

Now let’s start with what is needed for that creativity to be turned into a final product. You’ll want to start with three things: Fabrique, a pattern of some sort, and a tailor or contract sewer.

Fabrique, as we know it, should entail some unique textiles in both denim and what we call “pocketing”. Its recommended that the textiles be unique because they will help distinguish your jeans from what the off-the-rack brands have to offer.

How To Create Your Own Pair Of Raw Denim - Pt. 1

An Example of Unique Pocketing

An average pair of jeans will require 1.5 yards of denim per pair. For starting out, its recommended that you create two pairs in order to keep the price advantage. To give oneself plenty of leeway, think about sourcing five yards of denim fabrique that moves you.

A small yardage of denim fabrique should be sourced from what we in the industry call textile jobbers. The denim mills of origin host very high yields on small production runs and offer small cuts. That leaves the jobbers who purchase surplus high quality yardage of raw denim from various mills in the USA, Japan, Turkey, Italy, Pakistan, and China.

The current craze in raw denim is short-roll milled selvage end-lined denim. Selvage denim is fine, but I personally don’t find it that special when it’s shortcomings come to light. (More about that later.)

How To Create Your Own Pair Of Raw Denim - Pt. 1

Choose Your Denim Wisely

With five yards of the desired denim fabrique on hand, we now need it to be fitted and designed to preference. To be honest, a pair of denim jeans is quite easy to produce. All that is needed is the cut/fit to create a pattern. Once the pattern is cut to size, it is then sent off to be made into cardboard pieces of the fabrique sections. These cardboard pieces are called oak cards.

How To Create Your Own Pair Of Raw Denim - Pt. 1

Original Designs

From the oak card, the denim will then be chalked and cut from the pattern pieces. A tailor or contract sewer then sews the pieces of your jeans together according to your design specs. More on that next time.

How To Create Your Own Pair Of Raw Denim - Pt. 1

An Example of Oak Cards

How To Create Your Own Pair Of Raw Denim - Pt. 1

How To Create Your Own Pair Of Raw Denim - Pt. 1

Stay Raw!

-Christopher

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  • Grazfather x

    Ah. Cool.

  • TooAwesome

    I think you should’ve included sources for the ‘textile jobbers’ who’ll provide the best quality for price As well as where to find patterns/templates or how to create our own (ie. how much space to leave in order to account for folds/stitching)

  • Arieberg

    Well, interesting, but a lot  of work.
    I rather recreate old denim jeans by patching them over and over on my own ideas. I buy frequently used second hand Levi´s 501xx (once they were raw and rigid, because it 501xx is the shrink-to-fit piece) and started patching them in the crotch, the seat, the legs and where-ever needed. Resulting in a unique and wonderful piece of denim. I have already patched about 80 jeans in about 30  years (not only for me, but also for friends and other people who are interested. Every sewing-session on the jeans is big fun to do!

  • Anteezy

    Great article.

  • Pingback: How To Make Your Own Raw Denim Jeans – Denim Therapy Blog

  • http://www.ajchen.com Andrew

    “The current craze in raw denim is short-roll milled selvage end-lined denim. Selvage denim is fine, but I personally don’t find it that special when it’s shortcomings come to light. (More about that later.)”
    This should be interesting.

  • http://www.facebook.com/matt.wilson.33 Matt Wilson

    I am really interested to hear about the shortcomings of Selvage Denim from the point of view of someone in the business or producing jeans and not just the end customer, we dont hear enough about this point of view, so I look forward to the following post.

  • Gary

    I think its about time we had part 2

  • Marc

    I am ready for Part 2 . . .
    Thanks

  • Pingback: How To Create Your Own Pair Of Raw Denim Pt.2 | RawrDenim.com

  • HTFDDNM

    “To be honest, a pair of denim jeans is quite easy to produce. All that is needed is the cut/fit to create a pattern. Once the pattern is cut to size, it is then sent off to be made into cardboard pieces of the fabrique sections. “As someone who has spent the last two years learning how to make and produce jeans, I can tell you that there is nothing easy about it. It is easy to have some one else make them for you sure, however I encourage you all to get behind the machine and try it out.

  • jjimenezjj

    Has anyone done this yet? We need a custom jean, Fade Friday!

  • TexanSailor

    Where can i get my hands on some raw denim fabric? Please post links

  • justwes

    Very interested in Part 2.