5 Pairs of Raw Denim Done Different

Fading on the PBJ XX-009 Deep Indigo Model

Fading on the PBJ XX-009 Deep Indigo Model

Think Different. The slogan introduced by the late Steve Jobs when Apple was reinventing itself in the 90′s. It spoke about thinking outside the box (remember those clunky old computer cases?) and pushing past the status quo to create new designs.

This concept has also been applied to the world of denim by many innovators and companies in recent years. No longer content with producing Levi’s clones, many brands have found ways of producing raw denim with a twist. (What a twist!)

As usual, the five examples presented here are just a small sample of innovative raw jeans. They’re all made of premium raw denim, but like Apple’s products at the turn of the millenium, they’re not for everyone. Feel free to tell us your thoughts in the comments section.

1. IronHeart 634S-B Overdyed

IronHeart's Overdyed 634S-B Model

IronHeart's Overdyed 634S-B Model

IronHeart's Overdyed 634S-B Model

IronHeart's Overdyed 634S-B Model

The 634S-B Overdyed jeans are double dyed with a layer of black dye on top of standard indigo pigments so that they start out black and fade to a rich blue in areas of high friction.

  • Weight: 21 oz.
  • Fit: Standard Straight Fit
  • Denim: Sanforized IronHeart Selvedge Denim
  • Cotton: 100% Zimbabwe Cotton
  • Dye: Black-on-Indigo Overdye
  • Made In Japan
  • Price: $430.00
  • Available at: Self Edge

2. Pure Blue Japan – XX-009 Deep Indigo
Pure Blue Japan - XX-009 Deep Indigo
Pure Blue Japan - XX-009 Deep Indigo
Pure Blue Japan - XX-009 Deep Indigo
The PBJ XX-009 Deep Indigo jeans are woven with heavy indigo-dyed yarn for both the warp and weft, unlike most jeans that have white, undyed weft yarns. This makes the jeans darker and gives them a unique type of fade, as seen below.
Pure Blue Japan - XX-009 Deep Indigo

An Example of the Fades

  • Weight: 14 oz.
  • Fit: Tapered Fit
  • Denim: Unsanforized Pure Blue Japan Selvedge Denim
  • Cotton: 100% Japanese Cotton
  • Dye: Indigo Warp & Weft
  • Made In Japan
  • Price: $298.00
  • Available at: Blue in Green
3. Pure Blue Japan – NC-005 No-Fade Black
PBJ NC-005 No Change Black Model

PBJ NC-005 No Change Black Model

PBJ NC-005 No Change Black Model

PBJ NC-005 No Change Black Model

These PBJ jeans look almost identical to the ones posted above, but the main difference is that these jeans will never fade! For starters, the denim is woven with black warp and weft, but more importantly its been dyed with a chemical called Indanthrene.

Don’t worry if you haven’t heard of it, we weren’t familiar with it either. Turns out Indanthrene is a dye that will not fade from water, sunlight, or general abrasion and is even resistant to most acids and bleaches! The military uses it for combat uniforms, so you know this stuff is hardcore.

  • Weight: 13.5 oz.
  • Fit: Slim-Straight Fit
  • Denim: Once-Washed Pure Blue Japan Selvedge Denim
  • Cotton: 100% Japanese Cotton
  • Dye: Indanthrene Dyed Warp & Weft
  • Made In Japan
  • Price: $315.00
  • Available at: Blue in Green
4. Sunrise Japan - Indigo & Mud Dyed Jeans
Sunrise Japan's Mud & Indigo Dyed Jeans
Sunrise Japan - Indigo & Mud Dyed Jeans
Sunrise Japan - Indigo & Mud Dyed Jeans
Sunrise Japan - Indigo & Mud Dyed Jeans
Sunrise Japan - Indigo & Mud Dyed Jeans

Sunrise Japan's designer, Kai Takashi helps with the mud-dyeing process.

These jeans by Sunrise Japan really exemplify the role of tradition and craftsmanship that is at work behind every pair of Sunrise Japan’s jeans.
The jeans are first sewn together as untreated and undyed denim (does that make them more raw than regular raw denim?), and are then dipped by hand in indigo vats and special mud baths before being rinsed and hung to dry. Because the process is done entirely by hand, each pair of jeans has a unique finish.
  • Weight: 13 oz.
  • Fit: Slim Fit, Mid-Rise
  • Denim: Once-Washed Sunrise Japan Selvedge Denim
  • Cotton: 100% Japanese Cotton
  • Dye: Indigo & Mud Dyed
  • Made In Japan
  • Price: $348.00
  • Available at: Blue in Green
5. Samurai Jeans - S5000KA 
Samurai Jeans - S5000KA

 

Samurai Jeans - S5000KA
These jeans by Samurai Jeans Co. are called the S5000KA. The KA stands for “Kakishibu”, which translates to “Persimmon Dyed”. As the name suggests, the denim yarns are dyed with a brown persimmon extract in a traditional Japanese process.
Sadly, these jeans are currently unavailable, as they were a limited run in 2005. However, word is that Samurai Jeans is planning a 24 oz. version of the S5000KA model, slated for a 2012 release. Rest assured that when they are announced, Rawr Denim will keep you in the loop.
  • Weight: 17 oz.
  • Fit: Slim-Straight Fit
  • Denim:Unsanforized Samurai Jeans Co. Selvedge Denim
  • Cotton: 100% Japanese Cotton
  • Dye: Persimmon Dyed
  • Made In Japan
  • Price: N/A
  • Currently Unavailable

Stay Raw!

Sean
tw: @rawrdenim | fb: Rawr Denim  | newsletter: Rawr Denim

Sean

An enthusiast for all things denim, vintage and manly; speaker of Japanese; Rawr Denim's Managing Editor. When he's not being a grammar-nazi, he can be found finishing his degree in East-Asian Studies.

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  • http://www.thedescendingnude.com Style1artists

    Nice post. It amazes me every time I read these posts and notice how many top quality denim brands there are coming out of Japan. I like the fade on the PBJ XX-009

    • Anonymous

      So many quality jeans from Japan. Japan is the shit with this.

  • http://www.thedescendingnude.com Style1artists

    Nice post. It amazes me every time I read these posts and notice how many top quality denim brands there are coming out of Japan. I like the fade on the PBJ XX-009

    • Anonymous

      So many quality jeans from Japan. Japan is the shit with this.

  • natehate

    id like to see some pics of the over dyed iron hearts still

  • natehate

    id like to see some pics of the over dyed iron hearts still

  • Anteezy

    Nice article, but what’s the point of buying a pair of raw denim jeans that will never fade? It kinda defeats the purpose doesn’t it?

    • Anonymous

      That’s a good question, but it implies that the sole purpose of wearing raw denim is to cultivate fades. Generally speaking, this is not the main purpose of the Japanese raw denim scene, which instead focuses more on the craftsmanship.

      The No-Fade PBJ’s were designed for people who wanted well-made jeans that would retain their all black colour, unlike most black denim that eventually fades to grey.

      • Anteezy

        Ah yes, that’s true.

      • Anonymous

        +1

  • Anteezy

    Nice article, but what’s the point of buying a pair of raw denim jeans that will never fade? It kinda defeats the purpose doesn’t it?

    • Anonymous

      That’s a good question, but it implies that the sole purpose of wearing raw denim is to cultivate fades. Generally speaking, this is not the main purpose of the Japanese raw denim scene, which instead focuses more on the craftsmanship.

      The No-Fade PBJ’s were designed for people who wanted well-made jeans that would retain their all black colour, unlike most black denim that eventually fades to grey.

      • Anteezy

        Ah yes, that’s true.

      • Anonymous

        +1

  • Grazfather x

    The overdye and the pure blue are really intriguing to me..

  • Grazfather x

    The overdye and the pure blue are really intriguing to me..

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